Firstly, condition. There are innumerable ways in which jewellery can deteriorate and in some cases prove to be so badly worn it is impossible to wear. Conversely, if a piece looks too good to be true then it probably is. Numerous unscrupulous dealers have no problem passing off reproduction pieces as genuine, and many buyers are happy to feel they have had a bargain. However, good quality genuine antique jewellery in perfect condition will always command very high prices and is set only to increase in value. Logically, the older the item the more rare it is to find undamaged. The majority of affordable commercial antique jewellery will have one or two flaws which should always be pointed out by the seller prior to purchase. And if you are unsure ALWAYS make a point to ask. Genuine dealers won't mind how many questions you ask and should be happy to provide answers to the best of their ability.

Lead solder was commonly used to repair jewellery and many pieces (particularly early ones) have evidence of this. The antique jewellery enthusiasts are fairly evenly split on their opinions of lead solder, with the perfectionists disregarding an item with even the tiniest amount evident and others who view the repair as evidence of the journey the item has made through the ages; its history and "life" with previous owners. Really it is all down to personal taste.

Chains are important to check, be they bracelets or necklaces as the links can wear through (particularly close to the catch) leaving the owner with a costly repair bill to make it wearable. Rings can also wear extremely thin, and razor sharp edges can easily cut into fingers or twist and break under pressure. A hallmark on any piece is always a good sign, however it can make rings virtually impossible to resize without losing certain stamps or letters which immediately devalues the piece.

Georgian and early Victorian foil backings can often deteriorate, rub over settings can wear away to leave the gem exposed and antique claws are typically so fine (as per the fashions of the day) that they are easily pulled and broken. Engagement rings in particular can experience harsh wear to the edges of the setting where it has been pressed against a wedding ring for 40 years plus. It is also a good idea to check the underside of the setting for excessive wear.

Silver settings tarnish over time and are best left to a professional for cleaning. This will polish the silver back to its former glory and enhance the sparkle of any gems. Hinges on any item, including early 20th Century hinged earrings should always be checked for wear as they are prone to it and can be costly to replace.

Old cut diamonds are very often included/tinted and really must not be judged by modern standards of how a diamond "should" look. Collectors who purchase antique diamonds do so for the love of the cut and the characteristics they elicit which are completely overlooked by the more clinical modern cuts. They are quite often uninterested in the clarity or colour and instead fall for the handcut uniqueness each stone possesses.

And secondly, wearability; To own a perfect antique jewel in original box is like owning a beautiful work of art, and can be equally expensive. However, these jewels can prove so costly it is difficult for the owner to justify wearing it for fear of causing damage which would immediately devalue their pride and joy. Whilst perfection is a wonderful thing to own, sometimes pieces with the odd tell tale sign of age are a far easier thing to wear and enjoy.