For as long as humans have inhabited the planet they have adorned and decorated themselves from head to toe in an array of objects and materials. From flowers and leaves to diamonds and gold, the human fascination with jewellery, in whatever form is unsurmountable, and to delve into each incarnation would take a life time! For that reason we will focus on six main eras in the great history of jewels and attempt a brief but concise explanation of each.

1. Georgian: In England, the Georgian period encompassed five kings and 116 years, although much of the jewellery which remains available commercially is from the Regency period (1812-1830) and is incredibly rare in it's own right. In England, only 22 carat and 18 carat gold were used in the creation of jewellery, and as mass production had not yet arrived pieces were exquisitely handmade and owned by only the extremely wealthy. Georgian jewellery is rarely hallmarked or stamped. Cannetille Gold work is typical of early 19th Century craftsmanship which placed great emphasis on the delicacy and intricacy of gold work and settings. Gems were less important than the artistry of the design, although Amethysts in particular were incredibly expensive and therefore used for only the highest value pieces. As closed back settings were hugely popular, many gems were foil backed to aid refraction and shimmer and the settings themselves were highly ornate. Following the Revolution and the austerity which followed, France began again to embrace and influence fashions which favoured coral, pearls, agate, garnet, paste, topaz and chrysoberyl. The snake was a favoured motif, and designs often featured swags, wreaths, intricate floral displays, classical cameos and the use of the maltese cross. Genuine Georgian jewellery is incredibly rare and therefore commands high prices.

2. Victorian: Queen Victoria's reign lasted from 1837-1901, therefore Victorian jewellery is best studied as three main periods; Romantic, Grand and Aesthetic. The Romantic period was heavily influenced by the marriage of Queen Victoria to Prince Albert and favoured sentimentality and symbolism. As the supply of gold remained limited, jewellery is charaterised by filigree and cannetille gold work, all of which give the impression of size without the weight. Favoured gems included pearls, coral, amethyst, citrine and topaz as well as natural materials such as tortoiseshell, ivory and jet. Motifs including song birds, love knots, hearts and flowers, all of which were lavished with sentimental meanings were hugely popular. The resurgence in symbolic jewellery caused a revival of acrostic pieces such as the "REGARD" ring which had been popular during the 18th Century, and a Renaissance Revival saw the return of sumptuous and bold enamelling decorated with precious gems. However, in 1861 the Romantic period ended abruptly with the death of Prince Albert, and so followed the Grand Period, distinguished by heavy, dark stones such as garnets and jet, black enamelling and mourning rather than sentimental pieces. Jewellery focused more on loved ones departed than those remaining and had a far more sombre mood. This change coincided with the arrival of mass transit which made an undertaking of the Grand Tour easier and less risky for all. Greater numbers of people took to travel, including increasing numbers of women which impacted on jewellery styles and fashions. Micro Mosaic, Pietra Dura and Cameos from the Continent were brought to England and set by jewellers. At the same time growing interests in sport influenced reverse-intaglio crystals, jewelled and enamelled hunting scenes, and animal motifs. By 1880 (the beginning of the Aesthetic Movement) jewellery trends began to revolt against the sombre moods of the Grand Period and again embraced the lighthearted side of design and craftsmanship. Crescent moons, stars, dragons and butterflies adorned everything from hat pins to earrings, in part encouraged by Princess Alexandra who became iconic in the world of fashion. Dog collars and chokers returned, and many gems were chosen for their aesthetic beauty rather than intrinsic value. The discovery of diamonds in Africa coincided with the use of electricity and Victoria's Diamond Jubilee, and as for so many years the wearing of diamonds had been reserved only for wealthy, married ladies (and limited only to night time engagements,) women increasingly cast aside the rigid formalities of years gone by and emphatically incorporated the influx of new diamonds into their jewellery. The Industrial Revolution and mass production techniques meant wide ranges of jewellery were available which varied vastly in quality. Demand also called for the introduction of more affordable gold and so 9 carat, 12 carat and 15 carat were introduced from 1854. Hallmarks were the responsibility of the manufacturer and for this reason can vary enormously in detail. Some pieces will contain numerous stamps and others none at all. Most commonly a lone carat stamp can be found.

3. Arts & Crafts: This movement began in the late 1850's, and continued until the dawn of the 20th Century as "a reaction against the dehumanisation of man by the machine." Influenced by the work of John Ruskin and William Morris, it sought to rejoin designer and creator as one to create jewels reminiscent of medieval times, placing less emphasis on intrinsic value than on innovation and handmade crafting. Arts & Crafts pieces are generally free of embellishment, favouring simpler lines and more subtle use of naturalistic materials with the focus laid firmly at the feet of quality. Many pieces feature unpolished silver, green or blue enameling, abstract designs and uncut stones.

4. Art Nouveau: Following in the footsteps of the Arts & Crafts Movement in England, the Art Nouveau style was created in France at the turn of the last century and incorporated naturalistic design, free flowing lines, enameling techniques from the Orient and the superior craftsmanship of the Arts & Crafts Movement to create a sensuous, sinuous style far removed from traditional mass produced designs. Art Nouveau took its inspiration from the beauty of nature, and favoured twisting vines, exotic flowers and simplistic, semi-precious gems enhanced by luxurious enameling. Ostentatious displays of wealth through jewellery became the true antithesis of Art Nouveau which promoted handcrafting and design above intrinsic value. Rene Jules Lalique was one of the foremost designers of the Art Nouveau style, although Art Nouveau was championed by Liberty's in London. They commissioned the company Murrle-Bennett for ranges of jewellery in the Art Nouveau style, who remain one of the most collected and sought after manufacturers to this day.

5. Edwardian: (1901-1910) King Edward's ascension to the throne marked not only the beginning of a new century and historical era, but also the birth of the "modern" age where automobiles would become commonplace and travel and achievement could be unlimited. The desire for change and innovation marked a turning point in the way jewellery was judged and worn, favouring clean lines and uncluttered designs in contrast to the heavily embellished and more formal jewels previously worn. Jewellery became a fun fashion accessory which could be owned and worn by an increasing number of people, and the demand for this "new look" caused an explosion in the number of White Gold and Platinum pieces manufactured. The latter had only been used for Royal jewels from the mid 1800's when the technology to isolate the metal became available. By the early 20th century only affordability restricted purchase and with the availability of a less expensive alternative in the form of White Gold, these became the metals of choice for both the wealthy and fashion conscious. With the inspiration of the Cubist Art Movement, sleek lines and geometric influences became greatly favoured. Simultaneously, increasing numbers of women were joining the workplace, thus reducing the desire for fussy, overly ornamental attire. In June 1909 "McCalls Magazine" called for a more "mannish" look, in contrast to the exaggerated femininity which had previously been portrayed through clothing and jewellery. However this did not require a reduction in quality and elaborate filigree and engraving work continued to adorn jewels, although more delicate and less ostentatious than previous trends had produced. The creation of synthetic Corundum (Ruby & Sapphire) was an enormous scientific acheivement and synthetics became highly sought after post circa 1905. For this reason many high quality Edwardian jewels feature synthetics, which are now far less valuable than their genuine counterparts. Pieces of this era are increasingly sought after, in part due to their growing rarity and also as the trends of the new millennium once again favour similar ideals and designs.

6. Art Deco: A difficult style to pin down as the seeds of Art Deco began around 1910 (evidence of which can be found in late Edwardian and pre-war jewellery) although the "true" Deco period is generally limited to the 1920's and 30's. Further confusion arises as the term "Art Deco" was only used to describe the fashion for geometric lines, bold colour and abstract design years after the event. The boldness of colour have been attributed, by some to the Russian Ballets debut in Paris (1910) in which the vivid colours used in the costumes and scenery caputured the imaginations of designers world wide. Together with Cubism influences, and the discovery of the tomb of King Tut in Egypt the beauty if geometry and flamboyant prominence of abstract art became the height of fashion. Emeralds, rubies and blue sapphires took centre stage, enhanced by edges of the newly developed "brilliant cut" diamond which offered perfect refraction and superior sparkle. Jewellery became, above all else "dramatic," and unconventional. Pretty, feminine designs gave way to straight lines, perfect circles, pyramidal shapes and perfect symmetry. At the same time, Egyptian symbols became hugely popular, in particular the scarab beetle who's symmetrical form lent itself to the geometrical fascination of the time. Innovations in travel and the use of chrome in interior design increased the popularity of platinum and white gold for jewellery and also brought about a popularity for designs which denoted speed. In recent years, a resurgence of interest in the Art Deco style has meant thousands of reproduction pieces flooding the market. However, genuine Art Deco jewellery of a high quality standard command exceptional prices.

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