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For
as long as humans have inhabited the planet they have adorned
and decorated themselves from head to toe in an array of objects
and materials. From flowers and leaves to diamonds and gold,
the human fascination with jewellery, in whatever form is
unsurmountable, and to delve into each incarnation would take
a life time! For that reason we will focus on six main eras
in the great history of jewels and attempt a brief but concise
explanation of each.
1.
Georgian:
In England, the Georgian period encompassed five kings and
116 years, although much of the jewellery which remains available
commercially is from the Regency period (1812-1830)
and is incredibly rare in it's own right. In England, only
22 carat and 18 carat gold were used in the creation of jewellery,
and as mass production had not yet arrived pieces were exquisitely
handmade and owned by only the extremely wealthy. Georgian
jewellery is rarely hallmarked or stamped. Cannetille Gold
work is typical of early 19th Century craftsmanship which
placed great emphasis on the delicacy and intricacy of gold
work and settings. Gems were less important than the artistry
of the design, although Amethysts in particular were incredibly
expensive and therefore used for only the highest value pieces.
As closed back settings were hugely popular, many gems were
foil backed to aid refraction and shimmer and the settings
themselves were highly ornate. Following the Revolution and
the austerity which followed, France began again to embrace
and influence fashions which favoured coral, pearls, agate,
garnet, paste, topaz and chrysoberyl. The snake was a favoured
motif, and designs often featured swags, wreaths, intricate
floral displays, classical cameos and the use of the maltese
cross. Genuine Georgian jewellery is incredibly rare
and therefore commands high prices.

2.
Victorian:
Queen Victoria's reign lasted from 1837-1901, therefore Victorian
jewellery is best studied as three main periods;
Romantic, Grand and Aesthetic. The Romantic period
was heavily influenced by the marriage of Queen Victoria to
Prince Albert and favoured sentimentality and symbolism. As
the supply of gold remained limited, jewellery is charaterised
by filigree and cannetille gold work, all of which give the
impression of size without the weight. Favoured gems included
pearls, coral, amethyst, citrine and topaz as well as natural
materials such as tortoiseshell, ivory and jet. Motifs including
song birds, love knots, hearts and flowers, all of which were
lavished with sentimental meanings were hugely popular. The
resurgence in symbolic jewellery caused a revival of acrostic
pieces such as the "REGARD" ring which had been
popular during the 18th Century, and a Renaissance Revival
saw the return of sumptuous and bold enamelling decorated
with precious gems. However, in 1861 the Romantic period ended
abruptly with the death of Prince Albert, and so followed
the Grand Period, distinguished by heavy, dark stones
such as garnets and jet, black enamelling and mourning rather
than sentimental pieces. Jewellery focused more on loved ones
departed than those remaining and had a far more sombre mood.
This change coincided with the arrival of mass transit which
made an undertaking of the Grand Tour easier and less risky
for all. Greater numbers of people took to travel, including
increasing numbers of women which impacted on jewellery styles
and fashions. Micro Mosaic, Pietra Dura and Cameos from the
Continent were brought to England and set by jewellers. At
the same time growing interests in sport influenced reverse-intaglio
crystals, jewelled and enamelled hunting scenes, and animal
motifs. By 1880 (the beginning of the Aesthetic Movement)
jewellery trends began to revolt against the sombre moods
of the Grand Period and again embraced the lighthearted side
of design and craftsmanship. Crescent moons, stars, dragons
and butterflies adorned everything from hat pins to earrings,
in part encouraged by Princess Alexandra who became iconic
in the world of fashion. Dog collars and chokers returned,
and many gems were chosen for their aesthetic beauty rather
than intrinsic value. The discovery of diamonds in Africa
coincided with the use of electricity and Victoria's Diamond
Jubilee, and as for so many years the wearing of diamonds
had been reserved only for wealthy, married ladies (and limited
only to night time engagements,) women increasingly cast aside
the rigid formalities of years gone by and emphatically incorporated
the influx of new diamonds into their jewellery. The Industrial
Revolution and mass production techniques meant wide ranges
of jewellery were available which varied vastly in quality.
Demand also called for the introduction of more affordable
gold and so 9 carat, 12 carat and 15 carat were
introduced from 1854. Hallmarks were the responsibility of
the manufacturer and for this reason can vary enormously in
detail. Some pieces will contain numerous stamps and others
none at all. Most commonly a lone carat stamp can be found.

3.
Arts & Crafts:
This movement began in the late 1850's, and continued until
the dawn of the 20th Century as "a reaction against the
dehumanisation of man by the machine." Influenced by
the work of John Ruskin and William
Morris, it sought to rejoin designer and creator
as one to create jewels reminiscent of medieval times, placing
less emphasis on intrinsic value than on innovation and handmade
crafting. Arts & Crafts pieces are generally free of embellishment,
favouring simpler lines and more subtle use of naturalistic
materials with the focus laid firmly at the feet of quality.
Many pieces feature unpolished silver, green or blue enameling,
abstract designs and uncut stones.

4.
Art Nouveau:
Following in the footsteps of the Arts & Crafts Movement
in England, the Art Nouveau style was created in France at
the turn of the last century and incorporated naturalistic
design, free flowing lines, enameling techniques from the
Orient and the superior craftsmanship of the Arts & Crafts
Movement to create a sensuous, sinuous style far removed from
traditional mass produced designs. Art Nouveau took its inspiration
from the beauty of nature, and favoured twisting vines, exotic
flowers and simplistic, semi-precious gems enhanced by luxurious
enameling. Ostentatious displays of wealth through jewellery
became the true antithesis of Art Nouveau which promoted handcrafting
and design above intrinsic value. Rene Jules Lalique
was one of the foremost designers of the Art Nouveau style,
although Art Nouveau was championed by Liberty's
in London. They commissioned the company Murrle-Bennett
for ranges of jewellery in the Art Nouveau style, who remain
one of the most collected and sought after manufacturers to
this day.

5.
Edwardian:
(1901-1910) King Edward's ascension to the throne marked not
only the beginning of a new century and historical era, but
also the birth of the "modern" age where automobiles
would become commonplace and travel and achievement could
be unlimited. The desire for change and innovation marked
a turning point in the way jewellery was judged and worn,
favouring clean lines and uncluttered designs in contrast
to the heavily embellished and more formal jewels previously
worn. Jewellery became a fun fashion accessory which could
be owned and worn by an increasing number of people, and the
demand for this "new look" caused an explosion in
the number of White Gold and Platinum pieces manufactured.
The latter had only been used for Royal jewels from the mid
1800's when the technology to isolate the metal became available.
By the early 20th century only affordability restricted purchase
and with the availability of a less expensive alternative
in the form of White Gold, these became the metals of choice
for both the wealthy and fashion conscious. With the inspiration
of the Cubist Art Movement, sleek lines and
geometric influences became greatly favoured. Simultaneously,
increasing numbers of women were joining the workplace, thus
reducing the desire for fussy, overly ornamental attire. In
June 1909 "McCalls Magazine" called for a more "mannish"
look, in contrast to the exaggerated femininity which had
previously been portrayed through clothing and jewellery.
However this did not require a reduction in quality and elaborate
filigree and engraving work continued to adorn jewels, although
more delicate and less ostentatious than previous trends had
produced. The creation of synthetic Corundum
(Ruby & Sapphire) was an enormous scientific acheivement
and synthetics became highly sought after post circa 1905.
For this reason many high quality Edwardian jewels feature
synthetics, which are now far less valuable than their genuine
counterparts. Pieces of this era are increasingly sought after,
in part due to their growing rarity and also as the trends
of the new millennium once again favour similar ideals and
designs.

6.
Art Deco:
A difficult style to pin down as the seeds of Art Deco began
around 1910 (evidence of which can be found in late Edwardian
and pre-war jewellery) although the "true" Deco
period is generally limited to the 1920's and 30's. Further
confusion arises as the term "Art Deco" was only
used to describe the fashion for geometric lines,
bold colour and abstract design years after the event.
The boldness of colour have been attributed, by some to the
Russian Ballets debut in Paris (1910) in which the vivid colours
used in the costumes and scenery caputured the imaginations
of designers world wide. Together with Cubism influences,
and the discovery of the tomb of King Tut in Egypt the beauty
if geometry and flamboyant prominence of abstract art became
the height of fashion. Emeralds, rubies and blue sapphires
took centre stage, enhanced by edges of the newly developed
"brilliant cut" diamond which offered
perfect refraction and superior sparkle. Jewellery became,
above all else "dramatic," and unconventional. Pretty,
feminine designs gave way to straight lines, perfect circles,
pyramidal shapes and perfect symmetry. At the same time, Egyptian
symbols became hugely popular, in particular the scarab beetle
who's symmetrical form lent itself to the geometrical fascination
of the time. Innovations in travel and the use of chrome in
interior design increased the popularity of platinum and white
gold for jewellery and also brought about a popularity for
designs which denoted speed. In recent years, a resurgence
of interest in the Art Deco style has meant thousands of reproduction
pieces flooding the market. However, genuine Art Deco
jewellery of a high quality standard command exceptional prices.


© Copyright
2002 heirloom jewellery
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