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For collectors such as myself, the emergence of the internet,
and in particular certain global auction sites has been simultanteously
a blessing and a curse. Initially, the availability of specialist
items and the ease of sourcing were tremendous, however as
increasing numbers of people realise how great the demand
is, so too the number of those willing to swindle and deceive
has increased.
We
regularly receive emails from concerned parties requesting
our advice and help, so for the benefit of all here are a
few tips to avoid the pitfalls of online jewellery purchasing.
1.
Always check for the term "style". Many so called
antique dealers hide this term amongst their descriptions,
thus covering themselves legally whilst misleading an unsuspecting
buyer into thinking their two month old reproduction ring
is a genuine 19th Century bargain.
2.
Don't be fooled by antique boxes, we have seen these interchanged
between items, new insides made for original leather boxes
and then aged, and even new items made to fit an old box and
sold as genuine. Never assume an item has any age purely as
it has been advertised as having the "original box."
Always check the item separately.
3.
Beware of Georgian/Victorian jewellery set in platinum as
this simply was not available. Late Victorian jewellery which
does have a platinum setting will be a rare find and more
than likely a very expensive item.
4.
Until 1854 only 18 carat and 22 carat were available. A 9
or even 15 carat stamp on an alleged earlier piece will either
be a reproduction item or incorrect dating.
5.
Just because a 15ct stamp is present, this does not necessarily
make the piece a genuine antique. Unscrupulous dealers (many
based around the Jewellery Quarter in Birmingham) appear to
have found or created an old 15ct stamp and are happily using
it on any 18ct reproduction item they choose simply because
15ct is rare and therefore sought after. Check the piece for
wear; unless it has been stored in a drawer for 90 years it
should be fairly smooth or have some indication of a "previous
life". Also check for black shoe polish on the settings
as this has been used to "age" items.
6.
Check necklaces for a larger jump ring around 2" away
from the clasp as this is indicative of a particular reproduction
designer based in the Midlands. As they have begun making
and using barrel clasps, which were mainly used in the 19th
Century these can occassionally be mistaken for antique.
7.
Check for signs that the piece has been cast rather than handmade.
Modern cast pieces generally have a flimsy, slightly rough
feel to them.
8.
Price is a major give away. If in doubt, check another leading
antique jewellery specialist (Hirschfields/Christies) for
comparative items and see what prices genuine pieces reach.
If it seems too good to be true it usually is.
9.
Be careful with antique bracelets as they are often far too
short for today's women. It is well known that women in the
19th Century were much smaller than we are today, and it can
sometimes be costly or even impossible to lengthen an antique
bracelet.
10.
Early pieces in particular may not be marked as gold and testing
often leaves damaging scratch marks where the metal is gouged
in order to judge its reaction with acids. Reputable jewellers
will know if a piece is gold and should offer a guarantee
although they may not know the exact carat. However, the less
experienced may mistake pinchbeck, rolled gold, platings and
front-back lockets as solid gold which can have an enormous
effect on value.
11.
Diamonds pre-1919 should be of old cut form as brilliant cuts
were invented after this point. Some may feature lower crowns
and be more typical of the brilliant cut but will generally
feature flat cullets.
12.
So many techniques can be used to enhance the colour and clarity
of diamonds it is good practice to be aware of the following:
Laser drilling, fracture filling, irradiation, coatings and
temperature-pressure enhancement. Glass rods are visible in
diamonds from certain angles under 10x magnification and colour
enhancements are usually used to produce a fancy hue.
13.
Beware of Moissanite. It has been known to fool even diamond
testing equipment and could easily mislead the inexperienced.
Look for double rather than single refraction. Moissanite
will be flawless, diamonds of perfect clarity are immensely
expensive. Again the too good to be true rule applies.
14.
The Rose cut was developed in the 1600's but remained fashionable
until the end of the Victorian period, therefore is not necessarily
indicative of rare or early jewellery.
15.
Jewellery manufacturing in England has altered vastly over
the past 20 years, and most modern items which bear a UK hallmark
were actually manufactured in the Far East. These are regularly
sold in areas such as the Jewellery Quarter, Birmingham as
handmade and for vastly inflated prices. Unfortunately respected
areas such as this are increasingly relying on their historical
reputation to coax unsuspecting buyers into spending huge
amounts of money for very little quality, and although a handful
of genuine jewellers remain they are becoming fewer and farther
between.

© Copyright
2002 heirloom jewellery
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